Who This Checklist Is For

If you’re ordering custom labels, business cards, or packaging for the first time (or even the fifth time) and you’ve gotten burned by a bad print run, this is for you. I’m not a designer. I’m the guy who handles orders for a small business, and in my first year (2017), I made every mistake you can imagine. The worst one was a $890 reprint plus a one-week delay because I used a template that didn’t actually match the product. After three rejections in Q1 2024, I created a pre-check list. It’s saved us about $3,200 in potential waste since then. So, here are the six steps I follow now. It’s pretty straightforward.

Step 1: Match Your Template to the Product, Not the Spec Sheet

Most buyers focus on the product dimensions and completely miss the template version. For example, if you’re ordering a Avery 18160 (which is a 2.625 x 1 inch label for inkjet printers), you can’t just grab any 2.625 x 1 inch template and assume it works. The 18160 has specific margins and a top/bottom layout that isn’t identical to the 5160 (which is the same size but for laser printers and has different margin spacing).

People think a 2.625 x 1 label is universal. Actually, the difference between inkjet and laser templates affects where the print lands, and if you use the wrong one, your text gets cut off. The Avery website has specific templates for each number (like Avery Template 22822 for business cards on a 10-per-page layout). Use the one tied to the product number, not the one that looks similar.

(I learned this after ordering 500 labels for a client event. They looked fine on my screen. On paper? Every single one had the top line cropped. $450 wasted. I still have that box as a reminder.)

Step 2: Always Download the Template, Don’t Just Drag Your File In

This sounds basic, but I’ve seen people (including myself) import a PDF into Word and try to align it manually. The numbers never line up because the default margins in Word are different from the Avery template margins. The trick is to download the actual .docx or .indd template from Avery.com and paste your content into the designated text boxes. The boxes are pre-positioned for the exact label layout. If you mess with the margins—basically, if you move the text box even a millimeter—your print will shift.

The question everyone asks is “Can I just use a generic template?” The question they should ask is “Does this template have the exact same margins as the product?” Because the answer is almost always no.

Step 3: Request a Physical Proof (Even If It Costs Extra)

I know, everyone wants to save money. But the 30 minutes it takes to request a physical proof from your printer (like if you’re using an online service like 48 Hour Print) will save you from a full batch redo. The numbers said a digital proof was enough—it showed the design perfectly. My gut said something was off about the color. I went with my gut and requested a physical proof. Turns out the “dark blue” in my design was printing as navy purple on their paper stock. Cost me $35 for the proof. Saved me the $890 reprint from Step 1.

Industry standard for color accuracy is Delta E < 2 for brand-critical colors (per Pantone Matching System guidelines). A physical proof is the only way to catch a Delta E that’s off by more than 2 before you print 1,000 business cards.

Step 4: Check the Paper Weight Against Your Envelope Budget

This is the one most people ignore. You might order a suit supply garment bag or a specialty packaging, but for mailing labels and business cards, the paper weight matters more than you think. Standard label stock for the Avery 18160 is about 20 lb bond (75 gsm). For business cards (like using template 22822), the standard is 80 lb cover (216 gsm).

If you’re ordering mailing envelopes with bubble wrap for shipping, you need a label that sticks to poly bags—that means a permanent adhesive label, not a removable one. A lot of standard office labels use removable adhesive that peels off when it gets cold. I once mailed 200 promotional cards in poly bags, and 40% of the labels fell off during transit. I hadn’t checked the adhesive type.

(The assumption is that all labels are sticky enough. The reality is that there are at least 5 types of adhesive: permanent, removable, freezer, high-tack, and matte. You have to match the adhesive to the surface.)

Step 5: Understand the Real Deadline (Not the Printer’s Estimate)

Had 2 hours to decide before a rush processing deadline? That’s a trap. A vendor’s “estimate” usually ignores the revision cycle. I did a project for a client who needed their Avery business card order by Friday. The printer said “3 business days turnaround.” I assumed that meant order Monday, deliver Thursday. But the 3 days started after proof approval. I made a mistake on the template (missing a corner crop mark) and it took two days to fix. Suddenly, the 3-day turnaround started on Wednesday and delivery was Monday. They missed the event.

I should have pushed back and asked for the actual calendar with revision slots. Now, I always add 2 business days to the printer’s estimate as a buffer.

Step 6: One Final Check Before Hitting “Submit”

Here’s the checklist I run through mentally:

• Template number matches product number? (Is the 18160 template for inkjet and not laser? Is the 22822 for business cards on 10-per-page?)
• Is the design centered within the text boxes? (Even a 0.5mm shift can make it look amateur.)
• Color mode is CMYK? (Never RGB for print. RGB is for screens.)
• Proof requested and approved in writing? (A thumbs-up in an email counts.)
• Adhesive matched to the surface? (For mailing envelopes with bubble wrap? Permanent.)
• Paper weight correct? (For business cards? Minimum 80 lb cover.)

I’ve caught 47 potential errors using this checklist in the past 18 months. It’s not perfect—I still miss things. But it’s better than the early days.

A Note on Templates and “One-Size-Fits-All” Promises

Honestly, the biggest lesson I’ve learned is that a good template (like Avery’s proprietary layouts) is worth the money. I used to think I could just make my own in Word and save a step. But the Avery templates are tested against their own products. If you use a template from a different brand (or a generic one), you risk a mismatch. The vendor who says “this isn’t our strength—here’s who does it better” earned my trust for everything else. So, I stick with the brand that makes the product and the template, even if it feels limiting.

(Note to self: I really should update this list every time I find a new edge case. Maybe in 2025 I’ll add a step for spot UV or foil stamping. For now, this is enough to prevent the $890 mistake.)

Bottom line: Don’t assume. Get the physical proof. Use the right template. Check the adhesive. And add 2 days to every estimate.